French Riviera: Nice to Cannes

THE COAST

St Laurent du Var

The town just west of Nice melts into its big sister so it seems like just an extension of the greater Nice megalopolis. Yet, St Laurent du Var has features that make it a good and cheaper alternative to Nice. First, the beach, though narrow and pebbly (like Nice) is bordered by a new promenade that makes for a nice stroll. Also, the port of St Laurent du Var is a major restaurant, bar, cafe destination for its residents, neighbours and visitors. The restaurant line-up includes Chinese, Indian, Moroccan, Italian and of course local specialties. St Laurent-du-Var's Sunday morning market is another major draw for the town. The tiny Old Town of St Laurent du Var is also worth a look. See the St Laurent du Var municipal website for local information. The tourist office (no website) is on the seaside Promenade.

Cagnes-sur-Mer

Cagnes-sur-Mer is a town divided. There's the old medieval town on a high hill, Haut -de-Cagnes, Cagnes de Centre, a residential section of no great charm, and Cros-de-Cagnes, the cluster of shops, restaurants and more shops along the sea. A new promenade along the sea has made the latter more attractive and relaxing but most visitors will head to the medieval Haut-de-Cagnes. Here, the narrow winding streets lead up to the old fortress, Chateau Grimaldi, which now houses an olive tree museum and several art collections. Also in Haut-de Cagnes is the Renoir Museum, where the great artist spent his final years. Several Renoir works are on display. See the website of the Cagnes-sur-Mer tourist office.

Villeneuve-Loubet

Usually not considered a destination in its own right, Villeneuve-Loubet nevertheless has several points of interest. An otherwise uninteresting coastline is marked by the Marina-baie des Anges, a luxury residential complex that is one of the more remarkable architectural ensembles on the coast.  You can't miss it. Further inland is the attractive village of Villeneuve-Loubet and a 16th-century chateau where François Premier once resided for three weeks. Gastronomes will want to check out the Culinary Arts Museum (Auguste-Escoffier Foundation) which celebrates the work of legendary chef, Auguste-Escoffier who was born here. You can find more about Villeneuve-Loubet sights at the Villeneuve-Loubet tourist office.

Antibes

Antibes is a favourite stop among yachties as it boasts one of the region's largest ports but it still retains the ambience of a Mediterranean village. More.

Juan-les-Pins

The community right next door to Antibes blends right into its big neighbour. Juan-les-Pins is known for three things: beaches, jazz and nightlife. The beaches of Juan-les-Pins are narrow but composed of fine, white sand--a rarity on the Cote d'Azur! The nightlife is also much wilder and more diverse than that of Antibes, where hardly anything happens at night. Finally, the Jazz at Juan summer jazz festival draws major international jazz artists. Keith Jarrett, Diane Krall, Sonny Rollins and Herbie Hancock are just some of the jazz artists who have appeared at the July festival.

INLAND (ARRIERE PAYS)

Vence

The medieval core of Vence is small but makes a nice stroll. Notice the 13th-century gate and a 16th-century square graced by an ash tree that allegedly dates from the 16th century. Another square, the place du Peyra sports a fountain built in 1578. But the main attraction of Vence is Matisse's Chapelle du Rosaire, the extraordinary chapel entirely designed by Matisse as a gift for his former nurse and model who became a Dominican nun. From the stained-glass windows to the candlesticks, the chapel is a monument to Matisse's genius and a significant artistic landmark. Depending on the season, you can use Vence as a base to launch hikes of varying difficulty or attend the summer concert series, Nuits de Sud, to enjoy music from Africa, South America and the Caribbean.The Vence tourist office has more information about visiting Vence.

St Paul de Vence

As the most touristed small village on the French Riviera, visiting St Paul de Vence is not always a pleasant experience. The days when Yves Montand and his pals hung out at La Colombe d'Or are long gone, replaced by bus after bus of wide-eyed tourists. The main activity is strolling the narrow streets crammed with galleries and souvenir shops and admiring the view from the cemetery where Marc Chagall, another St Paul denizen, is buried. The most worthwhile highlight is a visit to the Fondation Maeght, a first-rate contemporary art museum, outside the old town walls. For more, see the St Paul de Vence tourist office.

Biot

High in the hills is the artisanal village of Biot which has been celebrated for its pottery for over 2000 years. Before Tupperware and even before glass, people lugged around their wine and olive in clay jugs which Biot was expert in fashioning. As other materials came into use, Biot artisans devoted themselves to turning out decorative jugs in clay and glass. There's a great deal to admire and buy in the streets of the old town, plus it's possible to see the artisans at work. Another highlight of Biot is the Fernand Léger Museum which contains some 350 works by the master. For more information, see the Biot tourist office.

Grasse

Known worldwide for perfume, Grasse is in the centre of a flower-filled valley--hence the perfume industry. Although there are some 40 perfume factories, only three are open to the public: Galimard, Fragonard and Molinard. There's also an International Perfumery Museum, that should reopen in June 2008 after an extensive renovation. Perhaps the most pleasant activity in Grasse is simply sitting at one of the outdoor cafes in the centre of town. The 15th century square is bordered by noble town houses that are in a slow process of renovation. See the Grasse tourist office for more information.

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