High up in Nice's hillsides lie the vineyards that provide Nice's Bellet wines to the town's finest restaurants and keep alive a centuries-old tradition. The vineyards are spread over verdant hills that overlook the sea and the overall setting is calm and rustic.The Bellet wineries range from tiny, family-run caves to sleek, highly professional operations that organise regular wine-tastings.
The cultivation of grapes in Nice stretches back to the third century BC when the Phoenicians planted the first vines on Nice's sunny hills. Concentrated in the Bellet neighborhood in northwestern Nice, the vineyards once extended to around 2500 acres and were exported around the world. American President Thomas Jefferson was such a fan of Bellet wines that he sent cases to his home in Monticello, New York.
Bellet wines were awarded AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlée) in 1941 and their production continues even though the acreage devoted to vineyards is now only about 50 hectares. Still, the sunny microclimate insures a small but steady output of fine, but expensive, wine. The wines of St Roman de Bellet are available for sale in most local wine shops and in Nice restaurants specialized in Nice cuisine but hard to find outside of the region as production is less than 100,000 bottles a year.
Bellet vineyards produce red, rosé and white wines.
Red Bellet is a robust wine, made from blending local Folle Noire and Braquet grapes with with two Mediterranean grape varieties: Grenache and Cinsault.
Bellet rosé is a blend of Braquet, Grenache and Cinsault grapes. It's a fresh, fruity taste.
Bellet white wines are aromatic and mainly produced from Rolle, which adds a floral flavor. It's often combined with Chardonnay or Clairette grapes for a fruity touch.
Of the nine Bellet vineyards that offer visits to their cellars, vineyards and wine-tastings Chateau de Cremat is the largest and most elaborate. Sprawling over 24 hectares, the estate offers splendid views over Nice from its well-manicured gardens. The main building with its crenallated tower dates from 1906 and has been impeccably restored.
The refurbished interior recalls the pre-war days when a visit to the chateau was de rigeur for the fashionable set. Its most famous guest was fashion designer Coco Chanel who allegedly adopted her double-C logo from the Chateau's portal.
The Chateau de Cremat offers visits to the vineyard only Monday through Saturday at 10am and 4pm. The price is €20. Visits to the Chateau and vineyard with a wine-tasting are held Monday through Saturday at 11.30am and 2pm. The price is €30.
Perhaps the most prestigious of the Bellet wines is that produced by the Chateau de Bellet. Its Baron G red wine was served at the European Summit of Nice 2000, the NATO summit of Nice in 2005 and the marriage of Prince Albert II of Monaco and Princess Charlene.
The outdoor terrace has sweeping mountain views.
Don't miss the 19th-century chapel built in honor of Agnes Roissard de Bellet.
The Chateau de Bellet is the only vineyard easily accessible by public transport. Take bus 62 from the Magnan stop and get off at Chemin de Saquier.
Guided visits run from Monday to Saturday from October through April at 11am, 2pm and 3:30pm. From May through September visits are daily at 11am, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm. The price is €30 and includes a tasting of three wines. Advance booking is required.
It's not necessary to book a guided tour to visit the vineyard and the chapel or to enjoy a glass of wine on the terrace.
Visiting one of the seven smaller vineyards can be a convivial experience and an excellent way to chat with locals. Smaller, family-run vineyards such as Domaine de la Source or Vinceline offer slightly cheaper wine-tastings and and also offer olive and olive oil tasting. Vindenice has a complete list. Note that reservations are essential in order that the owners may prepare and also find someone to speak English!
As only the Chateau de Bellet is near public transport, booking a Nice wine tour may be the easiest and most practical way to sample Bellet wines at least out of season.
A new shuttle bus that runs only in July and August is also an excellent way to visit Nice's wine region. Details here.
The Bellet vineyards are completely open to the public two weekends a year during the Portes Ouvertes in May and in November. Vins de Nice has the schedule. But you'll need a car.
To experience the Wine Route head north on the route de Canta Gallet and follow the route de Bellet north or the chemin de Cremat south. The chemin de Saquier also has several small chateaux. The road is well-signposted.
There are no hotels near the Bellet vineyards but there are a few apartments and villas.