Often counted as having the world's most expensive real estate, St-Jean Cap Ferrat, is perhaps the most exclusive and beautiful spot on the entire Cote d'Azur. The beaches are outstanding; the seaside walks under the pines are unforgettable and the thickly wooded peninsula is dotted with the Riviera's most stately mansions.
Cap Ferrat's prestige is not new. It has been a not-so-secret hideaway for the rich and celebrated ever since Belgian King Leopold II built a love-nest there for his teenaged mistress early in the 20th century. His royal presence soon attracted other glitterati.
Other royals and tycoons built sprawling villas that attracted artists, entertainers and politicians. From Charlie Chaplin and Elizabeth Taylor to a succession of French, British, American and Russian heads of state, there are few 20th-century notables that bypassed Cap Ferrat.
Baroness Ephrussi de Rothschild built a splendid palace on a hillside overlooking the sea and furnished it magnificently with furniture, paintings, fine porcelain and tapestries, most dating from the 17th-18th centuries. The entrance was designed to resemble an Italian Renaissance piazza.
The Grand Salon, decorated in Louis XVI style is another highlight.
From the second floor, don't miss the view of the gardens.
The gardens are the most impressive on the Riviera, entirely designed by the remarkable lady of the house. There are eight gardens: French, Spanish, Provencale, Florentine, Japanese, Rose, Exotic and Stone. It's truly a flowery wonderland, dotted with reflecting pools, fountains, olives, pines and more.
The villa and gardens are open daily 10am-6pm (7pm in summer). In addition there are concerts Monday and Tuesday evenings from mid July to the end of August. Details are on the website Tickets for the villa and gardens (€18) are available for sale on their website. Advance reservations are desirable but not strictly necessary. It's important to insure that it's open however. As the site is available for weddings and other events, there are occasional Saturday closures.
Included in the admission price is an audio guide with detailed information on Beatrice and the works of art. Maybe too much detail. Touring the rooms with the audio guide takes at least two hours. Yet, it's essential as the priceless furnishings, art, tapestries and objets d'art are unlabeled.
Unless you are or know a billionaire, you will not be seeing the inside of the walled and pine-screened estates that nearly blanket the peninsula. Walking the quiet, tree-lined streets past the gated compounds is like glimpsing a party to which you have not been invited. The only exception is the Villa Fleur du Cap which you can see up close on the outside.
Sometimes called the "David Niven villa" after the English actor who lived there for decades, this villa was built in 1880 and even served as a locale for the film Curse of the Pink Panther. The villa now belongs to the artist Ana Tsarev. It's an easy walk from the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. Follow the Allée des Tilleuls to the Place David Niven.
From mid-June through August the tourist office of Saint Jean Cap Ferrat organises a boat tour twice a week in summer that takes you all around the peninsula. As nearly all Cap Ferrat's storied villas are hidden behind gates, a boat tour is indispensable for discovering how the billionaires live. A guide explains the sights in French and English, pointing out the legendary seaside villas such as the Villa Saint Jean.
Contact the tourist board for details and reservations.
The beaches of Cap Ferrat are among the best on the Riviera. Paloma Beach was the most famous but now it's closed. Not to fear, there are a handful of others tucked away on protected coves such as Les Fossettes (above). The beaches are free, sandy and open to the public.
Even non-billionaires are welcome to enjoy the indented coastline, stunning sea vistas, and rugged walks of Cap Ferrat. These three well-marked paths are suitable for walkers at any level. A walk along the Promenade Maurice Rouvier to Beaulieu-sur-Mer takes you past a parade of Belle-Epoque villas.
The Promenade Saint Hospice takes you to the 11th-century Saint Hospice Chapel next to the Belgian Cemetery for WWI victims. See more details about walking Cap Ferrat.
There's a row of restaurants on the port of Cap Ferrat that offer decent dining. Restaurant La Goëlette is the best of them, offering a seafood-based menu with vegetarian options (closed Wednesday).
For fine dining, head to either Le Cap restaurant in the Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat or La Table du Royal in the Hotel Royal Riviera.
For snacks, drinks, ice cream or light meals Le Cabanon fills the bill. Overlooking the Plage Fossettes in the Jardin du Paix, this casual outdoor place is only open during the summer.
One of the most delightful events in Cap Ferrat is the annual three-day jazz festival held in the Jardin du Paix. With views over the coast, the setting is magical and the programming features skillful jazz artists. Get there early to grab a snack and a seat. Check out the program and buy tickets here. The nearest bus stop is the Port.
Five-star Hotels
Royal Riviera
Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat
Four-star Hotels
La Voile d'Or
Three-star Hotels
Belle Aurore
Brise Marine
Delcloy
Le Panoramic
By Car
Take the Basse Corniche to Beaulieu-sur-Mer and follow signs to Cap Ferrat. There is little public parking which can be a problem in July and August.
By Train
Ligne 4 travels along the coast and stops at Beaulieu-sur-Mer from which it's a short and pleasant walk along the Promenade Maurice Rouvier to Cap Ferrat. Or, pick up the 15 bus to Cap Ferrat.
By Bus
Ligne d'Azur runs bus 15 from Nice to Beaulieu-sur-Mer and back which stops at a number of places in Cap Ferrat. Note that the bus heads first to the train station at Beaulieu-sur-Mer and then loops through Cap Ferrat before heading back to Nice.
Get off at the Plage de Passable/Rothschild, to visit the Villa Euphrussi de Rothschild and/or the Plage de Passable. It's only a short walk to Place David Niven and the Villa Fleur du Cap.
Get off at the Port Saint Jean to visit the port and village and to begin the Saint Hospice or Tour du Cap walks around Cap Ferrat. To the north lies the Plage Cros Dei Pins and to the south lie several beaches including Paloma Plage.
The Saint-Jean Cap Ferrat tourist office is on 59 av Denis Semeria, the main road leading into Cap Ferrat; Grab a map before heading out to the walking trails.
Hi! I'm Jeanne Oliver--tour guide and author and I've been living on the Riviera for years. With my local insights your trip will be easy and fun. And, do check out my book Nice Uncovered: Walks Through the Secret Heart of a Historic City.
