As the first Italian town across the border, Ventimiglia offers you a quick taste of Italy on your visit to the Cote d'Azur. It's amazing how the ambience can change just a few short kilometers from France! Cafe life is always buzzing even in winter. The coffee is excellent and aficionados of Italian food won't be disappointed. The "new" town stretches along the sea and the medieval village is perched on a hill on the other side of the Roya river. Most of the action--restaurants, cafes, businesses, markets--are in the newer part of town, between the train station and a rocky beach.

Things to Do in Ventimiglia

Explore the Medieval Old Town

Ventimiglia's underrated medieval town (Alta Ventimiglia) is perched on a hill and maintains the quiet ambience of an Italian village. It was the center of Ventimiglia's life until 1800. To get there, cross the Roya river and look for the tunnel. About half-way through you'll see an elevator to the top. (Or you can take the road on the left after the bridge which winds uphill).

One of the first sights is the Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta which dates back to the 12th century and was built on the site of an ancient pagan temple.

The striking Saint Antonia Abate church and convent dates from the 17th century.

Much of the pleasure of the old town comes from wandering the ancient and quiet streets.

and absorbing the atmosphere of old Italy.

There are a few restaurants as well. Try Al Orologio, a simple trattoria on Piazza della Fontana.

Or climb to the top to eat at U Fontanin a swanky wine bar with meals, snacks and a view of the sea.

Speaking of sea views, it's worth it to climb to the top if only to gaze at the panorama.

Shop with the Locals at the Ventimiglia Covered Market

Here's where shoppers from across the region come to do their grocery shopping in Ventimiglia's covered market (open Monday-Saturday until 2pm).

For reasons that have never been adequately explained, groceries are substantially cheaper in Ventimiglia than they are just over the border. The best deals are on Italian cheese, fresh pasta and various products such as leafy greens that are difficult to obtain outside of Italy and fruit that comes directly from Sicily.

Look for Deals in the Friday Market

The Ventimiglia Friday market is well known throughout the region. Stall after stall fill the streets of the new town east of the river, selling clothes, leather goods, jewelry, household items and more. Some of the clothing is overstock from various labels but most bear the "Made in Italy" label. The selection is vast. Don't be afraid to bargain and you're sure to find some good deals.

The days when the Ventimiglia market was known for its counterfeit items is long gone though. In recent years the police have cracked down ferociously with arrests and fines.

Relax in the Public Park

When the shopping becomes exhausting step over to the adjoining public park which is a haven of peace.

Stroll along the Port

Ventimiglia's new Port was financed by Prince Albert II of Monaco because Monaco's port was getting too crowded with yachts! In addition to admiring the boats, there's a pleasant promenade running from the Port westward. To get to the port, cross the river, go through the tunnel and you'll be in front of the Port.

Where to Eat in Ventimiglia

In addition to the restaurants in Alta Ventimiglia mentioned above, you'll find an assortment of places running along the sea on the Lungo Roia G. Rossi. Some have terraces on the sea. My personal favorite is Pasta Basta on the Port. There are dozens of pasta dishes from the classic to the unique and portions are enormous.

Practical Tip

Ventimiglia can be shoulder-to-shoulder with shoppers on Friday, especially in July and August. Prices are higher too. If it's the Italian experience you're after, come during the week, have a gelato, and peruse the market and regular stores which are still cheaper than France.

Getting to Ventimiglia

The best way to get to Ventimiglia is by train. Trains from Nice run hourly at least and the trip takes about an hour. The Ventimiglia train station is right in the centre of the new town which is convenient. Just go down hill and you'll be at the market in minutes. Be aware that the trains returning to Nice late Friday afternoon are hideously crowded. Try to return early in the afternoon or stay for dinner and return in the evening.

If you must take your car, go via the A8 motorway. Note that parking in town on Friday is nearly non-existent.